
8 months 1 weeks ago
When you’re in your twenties or early thirties, building credit can feel like a slow game. You pay your bills on time, keep your balances low, and yet your score doesn’t jump as fast as you’d like. One of the biggest reasons for that is something you can’t rush: time. Credit scoring models like FICO look at how long you’ve had credit, and that single factor counts for 15% of your score. That might not sound huge, but when you’re just starting out, it can be the difference between good credit and great credit.The length of your credit history involves two main things: the age of your oldest account and the average age of all your accounts. If you’re young, you probably don’t have a mortgage or a decade-old car loan. Your oldest accounts are likely credit cards. And your very first card — the one you got as a college student or with a small secured deposit — is doing more heavy lifting than you might realize.Here’s where many people make a mistake. A few years in, you get approved for a better card with cash back, travel points, or a higher limit. Your old card suddenly feels basic. It might have a low limit and no rewards. So you decide to close it. That feels like a clean move. But it’s actually hurting you in a way that’s easy to overlook.When you close a credit card account, the account stays on your credit report for about ten years if it was in good standing. That means your average age of accounts doesn’t drop right away. You might not see an immediate hit to your score. But here’s the trap: that closed account stops aging. Every year that you keep your other accounts open, they get older, but your closed card stays frozen in time. After ten years, it falls off your report entirely. By then, your remaining accounts might only be a few years old, which is not impressive to lenders. You’ve essentially erased the credit history you started building in your early twenties. That’s a high price.Bluntly, closing your first credit card is like throwing away a scrapbook of your financial responsibility. Lenders look at a long history as proof that you can handle credit through different phases of life. A person with a 20-year-old credit card is less risky, on average, than someone with only three accounts all opened last year. That’s why your first card is so valuable, even if it doesn’t give you free flights or cash back.So what should you do instead of closing it? Keep it open. Even if you never use it, the account itself is helping you. But don’t just leave it totally dormant, because the card issuer might close it due to inactivity, which defeats the whole purpose. A simple trick is to set up a small recurring charge on the card, like a streaming service or a monthly subscription. Then set up automatic payments in full from your bank account. That way, the card stays active, you owe nothing in interest, and you never miss a payment. You’ll build positive payment history on that old card for years to come.What if your first card has an annual fee? That’s a different story. You shouldn’t pay money just to keep a card open. But before you cancel, call the issuer and ask if they can switch you to a no-fee version of the same card. Many companies offer a product change that keeps your account open and your credit history intact while removing the fee. That’s the best of both worlds.The bottom line is simple. Your credit score doesn’t just reward you for doing things right; it rewards you for doing them right for a long time. Your first credit card is your earliest proof of that. Keep it open. Use it lightly. Pay it off each month. Let it grow old alongside you. That boring piece of plastic might not give you any perks, but it gives you something better: a history that makes lenders trust you for decades to come.Your credit score is like a grade for your borrowing history. A high score tells the lender you’re a safe bet, so they reward you with a lower interest rate. A lower score makes you look riskier, so they charge a higher rate to protect themselves. Think of it this way: a great score could save you tens of thousands of dollars over the life of your loan just by getting a better rate. It’s the single biggest reason to build your credit before you apply.
Only shop on websites you know and trust. Look for a little lock symbol in the address bar—that means the site is secure. Avoid using public Wi-Fi to make purchases, as hackers can sometimes see what you’re doing. It’s safer to use your home network. Also, consider using a digital payment service on your phone, as these often add an extra layer of protection.
The best first card is often a “starter” card made for people new to credit. Look for a “secured credit card,“ where you put down a small refundable deposit, or a “student card” if you’re in school. Avoid cards with yearly fees for your first one. Your own bank or credit union is a great place to start looking, as they already know you. The goal is just to get started building history.
You have powerful, free tools! By law, you can check your credit report for free every week at AnnualCreditReport.com. Look for accounts or inquiries you don’t recognize. Also, consider placing a free credit freeze with the three credit bureaus. This lock stops anyone from opening new credit in your name. You can temporarily lift the freeze when you need to apply for real credit yourself. Staying watchful is your best defense.
Be honest and proactive. Talk to your landlord directly. You can offer to pay a larger security deposit or get a co-signer (like a parent with good credit) to promise to pay if you can’t. Show them proof of your steady income or offer references from past landlords. This shows you are responsible. Some landlords care more about your income and rental history than your credit score.